M57/M57N swap definitive guide

M57/M57N swap definitive guide

E30/E34/E36

Since we were getting quite a few questions about swaps in to these three old timers, we have decided to make a list of dos and don’ts. If you are thinking about doing such a swap this might be interesting and helpful.

Before diving into wiring and engine electronics, the biggest challenge you’ll face with an M57 swap is engine placement and the oil pan situation. While fitting the engine into an E36 is relatively straightforward, the E30 and E34 chassis are much more problematic when it comes to oil pan fitment.

The E38 730d Oil Pan – Not the Perfect Solution

Many people online suggest that the E38 730d oil pan is a great solution for the M57 swap. However, the reality is far more complicated:

The E38 sump is only suitable if you are prepared to move everything 5 cm closer to the front of the car.
    This includes:
    • The engine itself
    • The gearbox
    • The engine mounts
    On top of that, you’ll also need to:
    • Make the driveshaft longer
    • Fabricate a new gear lever linkage

    The Final Problem – Viscous Coupler Clearance

    Even after all that hard work, you’ll likely encounter another major issue:

    • The viscous coupler may not fit between the engine and the radiator, creating a clearance nightmare.

     

    An easy and solution for this problem is to get a modified E34 2.5TDS oil sump.

    Pictures of the modified E34 sump:

     

     

     Another solution, although quite a bit more expensive- modifying E38 730D sump like in the pictures below: 

     

    The oil pick up has to be modified too. It will only take you a few hours to make it if you have a welder and a grinder. Note, that this only applies for E34 and E30 models. E36 does not need modified oil pick up or oil sump.

    Engine Mounts

    Engine mounts are generally straightforward to solve with the right components:

    E30:

    • No custom mounts needed. Use E46 330d engine mounts.
    E34:

    • Right side mount: Use from E34 2.5TDS engine.
    • Left side mount: Either fabricate a custom mount or search for an E38 730d engine mount (works with moderate success).

    E36:

    • No custom mounts needed. Use E46 330d engine mounts.

    Gearbox

    If swapping the M57 (only applies to E39 and E46 engines)  into a BMW that previously had a TD or TDS engine, the process is simpler:

    • The S5D TDS gearbox is reliable, holding up to approximately 700Nm without issues as long as you avoid clutch kicks or hard launches. However, the gear ratios are a little too short and will not be optimal in highway driving.

    • If you’re upgrading to a 6-speed gearbox (e.g., from E46 or newer models):

    You will need to fabricate a new gearbox crossmember.
    Modifications to your driveshaft will also be required.

    Electrics

    Loom Options:

    • You can use a standalone loom or our plug-and-play looms, both available on our website.
    Throttle Pedal:

    • Your existing gas pedal won’t work. Ensure you get a compatible gas pedal with your engine.

    Tacho Compatibility:


    • For E34's changing the cluster is only necessary if it is the old style one, with a mechanical odometer. Clusters with an LCD can be reprogramed by changing the eeprom.

    • E36 clusters can be reprogrammed with NCSExpert.

    • If you do not reprogram or change the cluster, there is a high probability of the rpm's being displayed incorrectly. 

    Fuel delivery system

    All BMW common rail diesel systems require pre-supply pressure in order to work properly. Generally, you will only need one additional pump to do the job as BMW has already installed in tank fuel pumps in these cars. You will need to connect your new pre-supply fuel pump to the existing fuel feed line. Get yourself a few meters of 8mm fuel line. Picture of the pre-supply pump is shown below. We only recommend using OEM BMW parts. On the other hand, You can upgrade and switch to a singe in tank pump, utilizing e60 pump and our fuel pump upgrade kit.


    You will need to install fuel radiator when running CP1 fuel system. A lot of people think, that this is an unnecessary part, when in fact, it is one of the most crucial pieces of the fuel system. If you have your engine remapped or like to push it to its limits, the is a high chance of fuel starting to boil inside the tank and fuel lines. This will both: reduce your engine power and is a potential safety hazard. CP3 Systems do not need the fuel radiator. 

     

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